After much hesitation, during which Ritter would often get out of the car, to walk into the deep lose sand, in order to orientate himself, we eventually arrived at the spot where years ago, on top of a hillside, he had found the beautiful Neoporteria laniceps. This is an extremely rare plant which is highly variable in the length, hardness and colour of the spination. Plants can only be reached after an exceptionally risky climb. Not too far away from this spot we found magnificent groups of Copiapoa carrizalensis including, much to Ritter's surprise, two beautiful groups of cristates. Before we reached the habitat of Neoporteria sociabilis, we managed to find wonderful groups of  Copiapoa carrizalensis var. gigantea. Farther along, growing between the rocks, we found, in between the rocks Copiapoa echinata var. borealis and Thelocephala glabrescens.

Chilean coastal landscape with groups of Copiapoa carrizalensis var. gigantea Ritter.
photo Buining

It was unavoidable that sooner or later we'd have to spend the night in the car, in a valley between bare, ocer coloured hills, in total solitude. As the sun went down, the hills took on remarkable colours, changing from yellow to brown and ocer hues. This is a spectacle that  is completely foreign to us Europeans. We were very tired and dropped into our primitive beds as if they were soft comfortable mattresses and within minutes, were asleep.

The next morning, it transpired that in the next valley there was an indian hut. We found Thelocephala fulva growing on the hilltops. We asked a young indian boy if there was a well near by, which he confirmed. However, the water in the well to be very brackish, something that the boy's family and the local llama species, the Guanaco, had apparently grown used to. We were able to enjoy a good wash and topped up the car. The boy emerged from the hut with arrow heads that he had found in the Desert. Apparently, hundreds of years ago, the Incas from Cuzco in Peru had fought a battle against local wild Indian tribes from the desert, who were as much a threat to supply routes as the armies of Napoleon and Hitler in the steppes of the Russian winter.

Before reaching the main road we drove through an area with many clumps of Copiapoa dura. When we eventually reached the Pan Americana, we stopped at a primitive inn, where the petrol had run out. After much debate we were able to obtain 10 liter 'gasolina', so that we finally arrived safely in the town of Copiapó, where, in a simple hotel we enjoyed a refreshing shower.

(to be continued)