The cacti from the west coast of South America grow in the relatively narrow
strip of land which lies between the Andes and the Pacific Ocean. Natural
climatic controls in this region produce a barren landscape from the
northern border of Peru to central Chile, where cacti are the predominant
natural vegetation.
The arid nature of this coastland is a result of the combined effects of the
high, unbroken, backbone of the Andes; the cold Humboldt current which runs
northwards off the full length of the coast of Chile and Peru; and the very
stable high-pressure anti-cyclone centred over the south-eastern Pacific.
These natural controls combine to produce an arid land stretching along
almost 2,000 miles of coast. Nowhere else in the world do we find a coastal
desert of such aridity spanning so many degrees of latitude.
In Europe, we have a weather pattern of frequent cyclonic disturbances
bringing continual changes of cloud and temperature, with varying amounts of
rainfall. In contrast, the anti-cyclone off the Pacific coast of South
America is undisturbed throughout the year, bringing a monotonous succession
of bright, sunny, cloudless days to the western slopes of the Andes in Peru
and northern Chile.
The natural air flow round the Pacific anti-cyclone produces northerly warm,
dry winds which are more or less parallel to the coast and so bring no rain
to the lands over which they pass. This general northward air flow is
modified by the effects of the rapid rise in the surface temperature of the
earth each day due to the combination of tropical sun, clear skies and
absence of vegetation. By day, the air immediately above the hot rocks or
sand also becomes very warm and tries to rise. On the other hand, the
constant motion of the ocean waters swallows up the sun's heat so that the
air over the sea shows little change in temperature between day and night.
During the day the air over the sea will be relatively cool compared with
that over the land, so that it flows inshore whilst the heated overland air
rises uphill. This produces a typical daytime onshore breeze which can be
quite strong at high noon.
The cool Humboldt current, which flows northwards opposite the full length
of the coast of Chile and Peru, also strongly influences the climate of the
arid zone. Because of the Coriolis force, the water tends to flow at a small
angle to the left of the air flow. The surface sea current thus sets
slightly away from the coast, being replaced by upwelling water from even
colder depths of the ocean. The coldest water is thus often found nearest to
the coast and will be 10 F or more cooler than the average for the latitude.
The vast quantities of marine organisms brought up from the depth by the
ocean currents support great shoals of fish: these in turn are harvested
both by hordes of sea birds nesting on the cliffs and by the occupants of
the isolated fishing villages scattered along the coast.
This cool offshore water exaggerates the typical difference between land and
sea daytime air temperature, so strengthening the typical onshore day
breeze. ·This effect can become so pronounced, especially in summer, that
the onshore wind or "virazon" reaches gale force in the afternoon,
preventing the handling of cargoes at the unsheltered coastal ports. During
the hours of darkness, the reverse effect is depressed by the cool sea
current and offshore night winds are mild or non-existent.
Flowing north with the Humboldt current is a stream of cool, moist air.
The warm air typical of the latitude is chilled where it meets this cooler
air current and where the two air masses mix, stratus cloud is formed. Where
this cloud comes into contact with land or sea, it appears as mist or fog.
This fog bank generally occupies an altitude between 1,000 and 2,000 feet
above sea level, but varies in both depth and extent with locality and
season.
The upwelling of the coldest water near the coast is more marked in certain
places. The strongest upwellings are at about latitude 7o / 8oS
(North of Trujillo) and at 15o / l6o S (around Lomas)
with less strong upwellings at 22o /23oS (Tocopilla)
and 30oS (Coquimbo).
Water from the open ocean, at a temperature more typical of the latitude
overflows the cold Humboldt current and approaches the coast at 9o
30' S (Huarney), 13o / 14oS (Pisco) and a very marked
one at 17o /19o S (between Mollendo and Arica).
Where the water immediately adjacent to the coast is rather cooler, the
coastal fog is generally more marked and persistent.
The height and density of the fog also varies with the seasons. In summer
the cloud base will gradually life until it reaches about 2,000 ft
(extending there from up towards 4,000 ft), lowering again with the approach
of winter until the base drops to about 1,000 feet. The fog is also most
strongly developed in winter when the re-evaporative effect of the sun on
the cloud top is least.
At Lima, the clear skies of March and April begin to be clouded in May, the
cloudiness grows until, from late June until September, the sun is invisible
for weeks at a time. At Mollendo, the months of February, March and April
are least cloudy, whilst July, August and September are completely overcast
for many days in the month.
Owing to the regular daytime onshore breeze, the fog bank drifts landwards
on to the coastal hills. In Peru, the foothills rise more or less gradually
from the shore; in places, sandy plains of varying width and extent separate
the foothills from the shore. The fogbank thus lies on the hills and up the
valleys at a very variable distance from the shore.
For most of the coast of northern Chile the foothills rise steeply from the
shore to upwards of 3,000 feet: consequently, the fog only penetrates inland
through the lower passes and the infrequent river valleys. For almost 500
miles of coast in northern Chile there is but one river - the Loa -
breaching the cliff-like coastal barrier. When Charles Darwin, the famous
naturalist, visited Iquique in 1832, he noted how the fog bank seldom rose
above the cliffs of the coast range which rose almost abruptly from the sea.
In central Chile, the coastal range gradually reduces in elevation and
changes slowly to a series of peaks and ridges. It is breached by an
increasing number of rivers as the less arid climate of the Santiago region
is approached. As a result, arms of fog penetrate into more inland country.
Additionally, the effect of night-time radiation of heat to clear skies and
the consequent formation of early morning mists - especially where cold air
drains into valleys and basins - extends these foggy fingers inland at dawn.
As far inland as Santiago, low lying areas are occasionally covered by fog
banks.
In other parts of the world, onshore breezes bring mists to barren
coastlands (Baja California, Kalahari, Somalia) but nowhere can they compare
in extent and persistence with the fog bank - the "Garua" - running from
Ecuador to Central Chile. This fog bank is the source of moisture for a band
of vegetation on the coastal hills - a band perhaps a few miles wide in
places, barely a mile wide in others - in an otherwise rainless, barren
desert which is roughly between 50 and 100 miles wide. At its thickest and
wettest and most persistent, this fog will support lush, semi-tropical
vegetation. In the transition zone seaward and landward of this band and in
the region of thinner or less persistent fog, only cacti, lichens, and
Tillandsia grow. Inland or shoreward of these plants, there is only bare
rock or shifting sand.
The central part of Chile is also visited by the northward shift of the Westerlies in winter (July), bringing an annual rainfall to Santiago which
averages about 16": this rainfall decreases northwards so that at Coquimbo
there is commonly only one rain shower each year - in some good years, two.
This additional moisture allows the Neoporteria and Tephrocactus to spread
from the coast, inland to the main Andean chain.
Inland from Los Villos, we find Eulychnia growing both on the coast and for
about fifteen miles along quebradas and basins. Near Coquimbo, the Copiapoa
appear and with various allies of Neoporteria continue nearly to the
northern borders of Chile. From northern-most Chile to Punta Chala in Peru
we find the genus lslaya.
The continuity of the climatic characteristics of this zone are exemplified
by comparing John Akers' description of "Peruvocereus" clavatus found near
Lima, which had spines and bristles grey and shaggy as a plant became
covered with lichens and Tillandsia (Jnl. Cactus & Succulent Society of
America XX, 4, April 1948) with Hans Lembcke's description and illustration
of Eulychnia observed near La Serena, overgrown with great cushions of moss
(Kakteen 9, 3, March 1958), although these two observations were made about
1,500 miles apart.