A few months ago, I wrote that it was raining in the desert in the north of Chile and that meant that the desert would be flowering. As this was confirmed my wife and I decided to visit the desert, look at the flowering desert and at some cacti we had not seen (discovered) till now. This was our experience:

Day 1

We took a small camper and started from home (at the Cordillera de la Costa near to Olmué, c. 100 km. from Santiago) on Friday 22 Sept. We took the Panamericana at La Calera driving north to Los Vilos, then to Illapel, taking the southern side of the Choapa river before we got there. We were looking for Neoporteria multicolor (E. Neoporteria senilis v. senilis, according to F. Katterman), but instead found some Neoporteria curvispina var. choapensis. It was not easy but by the end of the day we were successful, close to Quelen. The fact that they were flowering was very helpful.

On the way, machines were working to widen the road, and more than one cactus was destroyed. We found some to take with us, as we were collecting seeds and reproduce them. There was no problem to find a quiet place to sleep with the camper in Quelen.

Day 2

We took a small road to the north (Combarbalá) and on the way we visited Matancilla. On the way there we found more Neoporteria senilis in flower, more than in Quelen and healthier populations. There somebody suggested a smaller road (over the old railway). We tried, but lost our way on the many unmarked small tracks, so finally returned to Matancilla. On the way we had seen very strong Echinopsis (Trichocereus) chilensis, Eulychnia and the most frequent Opuntia berteri. We went through Combarbalá and found a good place for the camper at the northern border of Embalse Cogotí.

Day 3

After about 30 km. on our way to Monte Patria, at Guatulame we found what we think is Neoporteria limariensis - here without taproots. We continued our way north, passing through Ovalle (road 43) just to Tambillo, where we took a small road back to the Panamericana. Here we saw the first explosion of flowers (Alstroemeria, Rodophiala, Heliotropos, Carbonillo and many, many we could not identify) due to the rains in winter. On this way we also saw some Neoporteria subbgibbosa (v. nigrihorrida). We had lunch at this very nice place. We spent the rest of the day in Tongoy, at the sea.

Day 4.

We joined a group that was visiting the blooming desert under the guidance of Paulina Riedeman, who teaches Chilean flora at an Institute in Santiago and who has a lot of field experience. Our trip took us to Bahía Inglesa, next to Caldera, passing Copiapó, visiting different places near to the Panamericana. In some places it is possible to identify more than 40 different species of plants in flower!

Day 5.

We visited Quebrada el León near to Caldera. We were especially interested in finding cacti. We saw Copiapoa but were unable to say with certainty if they were C. calderana (most of them were solitary and we knew C. calderana from other places as mostly branching, they were smaller too. Does somebody know this place and make a suggestion?

Day 6

On this day we had planned to climb the Morro Copiapó, and look for Neoporteria (or Thelocephala) odieri. We had spent the night near to the Morro (a hill of about 350 m.). At first we were unsuccessful, but at a second attempt we found an easier way. Climbing, we could see a lot of Copiapoa marginata v. marginata, some in poor condition but also a lot of healthy specimens and some young ones (not many). On the top we looked, hoping that they would be flowering, but we could not find anything. It was a very cold and windy day, unexpected, but we persevered.

Looking and looking for a cactus that is 2-4 cm. and is almost covered by earth was not easy, but suddenly when you discover one, it gets easier, as you know exactly what to look for. There were plenty, some of them with small flower buds. I guess in ten days it will be easy to find them. After three hours we were back, very happy. The sun was also back making a very beautiful day.

We started on our way home. West of Monteamargo, on the way to Barranquilla, we could identify Copiapoa megarhiza var. echinata ( = Cop. echinata v. borealis, Ritter), in an unexpected location;  sand with just a few rock outcrops. Probably half the Copiapoa here were dead or in poor condition. We looked for Thelocephala monteamargensis (glabrescens), but could not find it. May be they are in an other place (somebody can help?) Back to the Panamericana and the next stop was Domeyko.

Day 7

From Domeyko along the Quebrada Chañaral to Chañaral de Aceituna. A very nice place, a small oasis with olives near to the sea. Here we found Neoporteria villosa (described usually further north, around Huasco) but we don’t know what else it could be. The appearance is very similar, may be a little bigger than the N. villosa from Huasco. Looking for them we suddenly discovered another Telocephala, maybe N. odieri var.  glabrescens. It had a long taproot (about 10 -15 cm.) with a very narrow neck. The spination makes us hesitate: plants are almost spineless; few have short radial spines (1-3 mm.), up to 6 per areole. The body is 3-5 cm. in diameter, brownish to red, flat. It was not in flower. Can somebody who has been there help? I am sorry that I am not able to put a picture in Internet.

Next we visited Chungungo and along the coast to Los Hornos in Quebrada Honda. On the way we found probably Neoporteria wagenknechti. They were not in flower, so we could not see if these had small flowers as described for this subgibbosa variety, but the location is the correct one. From here to our next stop at Parque Nacional Fray Jorge. A lot of flowering E. chilensis.

Day 8

Last day. Just one stop at Caleta Los Loros where we found a population of Copiapoa coquimbana and a very old and nice cristata of this species. We had not seen any before.

It was a nice trip, flowers everywhere!! At home all our cacti were still alive without our daily guidance.

Now we are planning a trip to Cordoba (may be passing through San Luis) in Argentina, starting about 15 November. We would be very happy if somebody could help with indication what to see and where.

 From Chile
Ricardo Keim