The first time I visited the
town of Vicuña, on 11 May 2001, we came
across a cactus and succulent plant nursery that became
S008 on my checklist of cactus related photo
stops taken in 'cactus country'. Juan had also visited this place and the
owner had proudly produced his scrap book with pages printed from the
Internet, including a page from Copiapoa.info containing a picture of he and
his wife posing for my camera.
We had tried to visit the place
the previous day, but sadly arrived after closing tie, to be told by
neighbours that the sales house would be open again at 9 a.m. the next
morning. And so we found ourselves back at the same spot as six years ago
which this time became S714. The range of plants was much the same, a
mixture of exotics, such as Euphorbia, Aloe vera, some Mammillaria, Opuntia
etc but also some local cacti, presumably rescue plants, as it is illegal to
trade in habitat collected plants in Chile and the nursery was situated
immediately opposite the police station. The tremendous development of
vineyards in the Elqui Valley continues to take its toll on the cactus
population that are being pushed back to the really steep slopes, unsuitable
for agriculure.
Juan explained that I was the
person who had taken their picture and that it was displayed on my website.
He was delighted to meet Leo and I again and seemed to have learned from my
2001 suggestion to sell seed of the local cacti, as he sold me enough E.
aurata seed to start a small nursery, for under two pounds (c. US$D 4).
My suggestion however had been for the sale of seed instead of plants, not
'as-well-as'. There was a large golden spined Eriosyce aurata for
sale, $10,000 (roughly GBP 10 or US$ 20). I thought it best not to think of
how much it would fetch on eBay. He called his wife and I took another
picture.
We took the road south of Vicuña,
signposted to Hurtado. As we drove through the barren hillsides, sparsely
covered by scrub, Echinopsis (Trichocereus) chiloensis appeared to be
the only cactus around. But was this the same as the plant that we had
already seen so often on our travels? The spines were the longest that I had
seen; over 30 cm in length! It was by far the dominant form of vegetation
with thousands of plants covering hill after hill after hill.
A good two hours drive out of
Vicuña we finally spotted the first golden
spined E. aurata of the day. It soon became clear why Juan had been
reluctant to risk his life climbing the steep slopes for a single specimen a
day earlier - here (S715) they grew right by the side of the road, many to
60 cm (24") tall with a similar diameter. Most were in bud and it was not
long before we found the first plant with open flowers. The massive spines
of Echinopsis chiloensis also has a yellow to orange tinge.
Coincidence? or something caused by their shared environment?
There were also smaller cacti
here with long silvery spines: Eriosyce eriosyzoides. So why had they
not followed the yellow spined theme, even when yesterday we had seen proof
that they could.
It does not seem to matter how
wonderful the cacti are, but there comes a point at any cactus stop that
you've taken pictures of just about every plant from just about every
conceivable angle and the time comes to move on to the next stop.
S716, between the villages of
Morrillos and Seron, was prompted by a crested Echinopsis chiloensis
spotted a few meters from the road. I was quite happy to lean out
rhough the car window to take its picture, but Leo and his 28 mm lens needed
to get much closer. You see Leo, size does matter! Time will tell who took
the better picture.
As we had pulled over anyway,
Juan and I also clambered up the two meter tall embankment to take a look at
what else was around and were rewarded by the rare sight of a four headed
clump of E. aurata, as normally they are solitary plants. There was
also something that looked like Cumulopuntia sphaerica, but I still
need to check if there is another taxon from this area. And E.
erisyzoides was also around, and Eulychnia acida and, what the
heck, we had reached the base of the crested Echinopsis, so I might
as well take a picture with the 18 mm setting on my zoom lens, just in case
Leo's wide angle shot had been better than my earlier zoomed effort.
We drove on, but slowed down to
take pictures of a flock of parrots performing acrobatics on the telephone
wires alongside the road.
We found our way into and out
of Ovalle and were soon heading south again on Ruta 5, after yet another
brief hot dog stop at the Copec station at Soccos, where I'm sure the staff
were beginning to recognise us as regular customers. Time was pushing on and
we decided to spend the night in Pichidangui. That meant that if we wanted
to, we could have another go at the exit at Bahia Teniente. With just the
one car to consider and by now well familiar with the exact location of the
entrance it was no surprise that this time we succeeded. If only we had the
4x4, but this time it was the light weight Kia, better suited to the streets
of Santiago. Still, we had been impressed with its ability to tackle the
track over the hills to Hurtado, so we gently pushed on and found that the
sandy track reached the Ocean and then turned north (S717). A quick look at
the maps confirmed that this would lead to our stop at La Cebada, only 4 km
north of Bahia Teniente. We spread out, I first took pictures of the thick
thickets of Eulychnia castanea all around the car and the densely
spined Eriosyce subgibbosa that grew on the rocks down to the Ocean.
When finished, I saw Juan wave from the top of a high rocky outcrop farther
inland, while Leo was disappearing up into the low hills as usual. I made my
way over to the rocky outcrop and after taking a look all round it came a
across two or three clumps of Copiapoa coquimbana, almost buried in
the soft sand. Juan had already moved on to the hill next to Leo's.
Juan was back at the car soon
after me and we had arranged to pick Leo up along the track. As we made our
way back to Ruta 5, Leo reported not having seen any Copiapoa here. I
thanked Juan for calling me over to the rocky outcrop. He too reported not
havingt seen any Copiapoa. What about the three clumps at the outcrop? He
had not seen them. Fortunately I had pictures to prove that they were there.