It would take the best
part of a day to get back to Taltal. Cliff had swapped places in the car
with Trevor and we set off soon after breakfast. We had planned a leg
stretch at Baquedana (S676). It's only a small village, with some 500
inhabitants, stretched along Ruta 5. Every house seems to be a grocery
shop or snack bar with trade provided by the constant flow of trucks,
busses and cars that have to stop at the police control point just north
of the town. At the height of the saltpetre days it was an important
railroad crossroads and the town still has an extensive railway museum /
graveyard.
It's usually difficult to
find a curb side to pull up the car, but today it was easy. Most of the
shops were closed. It seemed as though some work had been done to put in
foundations to rebuilt some of the shop fronts, but the old fronts
seemed to have crumbled en mass. A politician, accompanied by local
assistants and a camera crew were visiting the local families, shaking
hands and nodding sympathetically. It was not necessary to understand
Spanish to understand that this small town too had suffered from
Wednesday's earth tremor.
90 minutes later we
stretched our legs again, at the Mano del Desierto, (S677), the third
stop without cacti or any other plants. There were cracks in the fingers
at the back of the statue. More damage from the earth quake?
We rectified this
situation, three hours later as we were checking the usual Copiapoa
taltalensis ssp desertorum stop in the Quebrada El Griton for
flowers (S678). There were some, but again not many, and all were
red(dish) as before. The signs, announcing that the area was
off-limits as it had been taken over by the Navy as an exercise ground,
were still up, but we heard or saw no activity so planned to plead
ignorance (not too difficult) if challenged.
Job done, we took the
scenic coast road back to Taltal, with the lowering sun bringing out the
magnificent colours of the coastal hills. Pictures taken (again non
cactus) were recorded as S679.
We returned to the 'Ali G'
Hotel, where those who had stayed in Taltal were glad to see us in one
piece. The news of the earth quake had caused some concerns along the
whole Chilean coast that it would be followed by a tsunami. Fortunately
this proved not to be the case. Juan and Florencia rang to say that they
were in Antofagasta and were reviewing their plans to go to Tocopilla to
look for the cacti that had escaped us. Later, they still heard large
boulders coming down the hillsides and judged it better to try again
later.