Trevor had received a phone
call from his parents in Australia, enquiring after his well being after
seeing reports of the Tocopilla Earthquake on TV. I had sent emails to
my Angie and my sister and sons in the UK, but it seems that the UK had
not rated the item news worthy; perhaps having a surplus of items that
would score higher on the viewers' ratings figures.
We decided to defer the
search for C. tocopilliana and Eriosyce laui to another occasion. So
what next? We had planned to visit a location that Ricardo and Ingrid
had nick-named 'Echinopsis atacamensis Valley', where we would also find
E. formosa (syn. Soehrensia uebelmannianus) and Oreocereus leucotrichus
and decided to do this today. Just as in Europe all roads are said
to lead to Rome, it seems that in Chile, all roads seem to lead to a
mine. Ricardo's instructions had seemed quite straightforward. We needed
to take the road north out of Calama to Chuquicamata and from there
further north towards Lequena and take a turning towards Mina El Abra.
But it seemed that all roads north of Chuquicamata were blocked by gates
that were open only to people on mining business. We asked for
directions and eventually found a road, signposted to Mina El Abra. Some
50 km, this road too was barred by a fence and security guards. We
explained our predicament to one of the guards who spoke English. 'Wait
in the car park please'. After a while, a 4x4 arrived with his superior.
There was a short discussion in Spanish with glances from both parties
in our direction. No smiles. Eventually, our 'friend' came over and
informed us that we had to follow the car of his boss, who had already
turned his car round and was pointing in the direction from where we had
come. We followed him for some 30 km, when he stopped and pointed to a
track off to the left east, before driving off in a hurry. We followed
the track, that soon turned north again and appeared to be the service
track for pipelines that ran parallel either side of it. This was
desolate terrain with not a plant in sight. Eventually we could see
traffic on a main road ahead and found a turning that took us across one
of the pipes.
A few km south, we took a
turning to the desert oasis town of Chiu-Chiu, (S668) a charming village
baking in the sun that reminded me of Toconao last year or perhaps of
San Pedro de Atacama many years ago. Its claim to fame is having one of
the oldest churches in Chile. It was being photographed by two bus loads
of tourists from France who had arrived in Chile earlier that day. It
seemed to be quite a culture shock for them as they seemed to wander
aimlessly from one artisan tourist shop to the next.
We picked up signs to
Caspana, on the road to the Geysers at El Tatio, that had in the past
been our target from San Pedro de Atacama. This time, we'd approach it
from the west, rather than the south and as usual, it was our interest
in cacti that provided the motivation, not some steam from bubbling mud
pools. Irrespective what we would see before reaching El Tatio, I could
guarantee my fellow travellers that we would see the cacti that had been
promised at Mina El Abra as we drove to San Pedro on our way back to
Calama.
I was pleased when we
spotted the golden spines of Oreocereus leucotrichus on the
hillside (S669). There were more plants plants here and in better
condition than at our 'usual' spot, but it was difficult to get close to
them as there were deep gorges separating us from the plants. Again,
having a good zoom lens enabled me to get some nice shots. There was
also an Opuntioid. Was it Maihueniopsis camanchoi, now also a
synonym of M glomerata or Cumulopuntia boliviana ssp.
ignescens?
They were there again at
the next stop (S670) where we saw large golden barrels on the hillside -
Echinopsis formosa! Great!,It is always good to add new locations to the
stop list and we would save time by not having to stop at our old sites
as well.
S671 was for scenic
pictures taken at and around the El Tatio Geysers. The landscape is
magnificent, but I prefer to see it in daylight rather than on the way
from San Pedro where the breakfast busses leave at 4:00 a.m. in the
pitch dark. Some vicugnas obliged by posing a safe distance from the
cars. Again, the zoom lens worked wonders - I had them almost eating out
of my hand!
We drove on, towards San
Pedro de Atacama - there is another settlement, just called San Pedro,
so its necessary to use the full name to avoid confusion for those in
the know. There was water and associated birds at Vado Rio Putana and
Mike thought that his birthday and Christmas had both come early as we
found flamingos wading in the water and the Andean gull (Larus serranus),
the only member of the gull family never to see the sea or ocean.
Couples of Andean geese (Cloephaga melanoptera) were strutting their
courting ritual, reminding us that here it was spring. I also spotted
some Crested Duck and Puna Teal. I'm sure that Mike's list includes a
lot more names!
We made a last stop at the
place where in previous years we had photographed Echinopsis atacamensis.
They were not the best specimens on the planet and I had enough pictures
from previous years, so I didn't record a stop number. Spotting the
flamingos had caused a further change to plans. Ian & Mike's cars were
due to stay an extra night at Calama so that tomorrow they could go back
to San Pedro de Atacama to visit the Flamingo Reserve at Laguna Chaxa
and a bit of tourist shopping at SPdA. With the flamingo box now ticked
and the prospect of some shopping before returning to Calama tonight,
they decided that tomorrow would be a rest day in Calama.
Trevor and I decided to
forego the shopping and arrived back at our hotel just after seven, just
in time to see a very festive parade and musical performance take place,
right in front of the hotel. I was pinned with my back (and camera bag)
against a lamp post as the crowds filed the square but had my handy S10
camera in my pocket with which I managed to capture the event quite
well. (Images recorded as S675). Trevor was caught in a better position and managed to capture some
of the moments and music on the video facility of his camera. Very
entertaining, but I still have no idea what it was in honour of.
All I know is that having marched through the town, having caused
traffic chaos that had helped us to slip into the hotel's car park, they
danced their hearts out for a good 30 minutes, unfortunately to the only
tune that the band seemed to know, but played with gusto..
That night, my fellow
travellers again reported some earth tremors and the dog population
howled the place down, unnerved by nature's rumblings. As usual, I slept
like a log and missed it all.