Following the
previous night's rescheduling of the itinerary, three cars left Taltal
for the journey north, on the coast road (Ruta 1) to Botija. After all
his lobbying the previous night, Leo had stayed behind, proving that
nothing is more changeable than the human mind.
We reached Paposo just
before 10 a.m. and were ready to stretch our legs and inspect the C.
humilis plants at the shrine, dedicated to the Virgen de la Puntila
which we first visited in 2001 (S064) and
which this time became S663. In previous years, the habitat seemed
always to have suffered from damage by guanaco, donkeys and / or humans,
with Copiapoa either nibbled down to the root, trodden on or attempted
to be dug out, which in all these cases had left part of the rootstock
embedded between the rocks. The plant's survival strategy is its ability
to regenerate new stems from these tap root remains. As a result, we
usually found quite a number of tap roots with a number of offsets with
a short spined juvenile appearance. Last year, Angie and I had been
unable to get to this site as road development of the track to mines
farther inland was in full progress. This enforced isolation seems to
have benefited the Copiapoa, as this time quite a few of the small heads
had developed longer spination usually found on mature heads.
S664 is a for a collection
of images as we travelled from Paposo to Botija. In 2003, we had
difficulty in finding the turning to the usual campsite at Caleta Botija
and I was keen to avoid the fracas this time. 'What are those
cacti growing along the side of the road that have been there since we
left Paposo?' asked Trevor. 'Copiapoa cinerea ssp haseltoniana' I
replied, as it dawned on me that if we didn't make a stop soon, he and
others who were here for the first time would never get a picture of
these plants in habitat. We made a stop and everyone was
happy snapping away, while I fired up my laptop and noted down the GPS
co-ordinates for Botija. The problem in 2003 was that the sun had
set so that it was difficult to recognise the silhouettes of the coastal
hills. Today, the tops of the hills were shrouded in clouds so that
again there was no recognisable silhouette. As I was driving, I passed
the GPS co-ordinates and the GPS to Trevor. Bad news! We had already
passed the spot!
The convoy made a series of
three point turns as I explained the situation to Ian and Mike who were
driving the other car. I also passed a copy of the co-ordinates to Ian
and off we went, back south. After some 10 km, Trevor was still reading
out co-ordinates confirming that we were heading in the right direction,
but with still some way to go. I spotted C. haseltoniana growing by the
side of the road. Strange! I was sure that these plants disappeared from
the scene sometime before Botija. How could I have been so wrong with my
past observations? I carried on believing the technology rather than my
instincts for a little longer, but then called for another stop to fire
up the computer again and double check the facts. The figures I had
written down were correct. Next to the GPS and then it dawned on me what
had happened. On my computer I had noted the co-ordinates in decimal
degrees, to facilitate input in Google Earth and Map Info. My GPS was
set to display our location in degrees and decimal minutes. I should
have had more faith in my instincts and checked earlier. It meant that
when we had turned around, we had NOT yet passed Botija. I broke the
news to the other car parties. Never mind, these things happen. It was
13:57 as we turned around again and 15:32 before when we finally arrived
at Caleta Botija. Bart & Marijke's car was already at the car park and
they must have over taken us as we made our slight detour to the Paposo
Shrine.
'Had we felt the earth
quake?' Marijke asked. No, we hadn't. 'Just the bumping of a flat tire
that we picked up following Ian up a very poor side track.' grumbled
Mike. Two continental shelves meet just off the Chilean Ocean shore. It
is the reason why the coastal range and the Andes exist. Each time that
one shelf moves a little over the other, the earth's crust shakes a bit.
It forms part of the Pacific Oceans 'Ring of Fire'. Some of the 2003
Copiapoathoners had experienced this while camping out at Fray Jorge in
2003. These are normally just small, local shudders, nothing to worry
about.
I wanted to check out the
extent of C. ahremephiana distribution along the track (S665) and
then drive on a little to a population of golden spined Copiapoa
solaris that I'd driven past on a number of occasions without having
time to stop (S666). Cliff decided to join me while the others
disappeared up the Quebrada.
Finally, to reassure all
future visitors to Botija, if you come from the north, you can not miss
it: there is an old car door with the words 'Caleta Botija' in white
paint, parked along the road.