One thing about our nights
under canvas is that most of us find the desert floor so uncomfortable,
once the sedation provided by wine and beer wears off, that people start
getting up soon after sun rise, shortly after 6 a.m. I was one of the
first ones up, keen to find a large rock for my early morning needs. I'm
sure that I saw John as well and assumed that he was on a similar
mission. Later it transpired that he had indeed walked from our informal
camp site as the sun was setting and had been caught by surprise by the
speed with which darkness falls at 25 degrees south of the Equator. He
had called for help and listened for a reply but could hear the noise
that we made around the camp fires. Everything was muffled by the sound
of waves crashing on to the rocks. Dressed only in shorts and a T shirt,
John had slipped in the dark and realised that nothing could be achieved
until day light. So he sat on a rock and waited for day light to arrive,
when he found his way back without much trouble.
Stories of large cat-like
paw prints in the sand near to where John had appeared resulted in our
camp site being referred to as Puma Bay during the rest of the trip,
with the question 'Where is John?' often heard, together with
suggestions that he'd be sitting on a rock, waiting for a mermaid to
appear. I doubt that you've heard the last of your adventure, John!
Having cleared away our
tents, and with some seemingly looking for a Copec petrol station to
meet at, we quickly set up the traditional group photograph as it would
be difficult to get the whole group, now at its maximum size, together
elsewhere.
Formalities over and done
with, the group split up as car parties headed for the entrance of the
Tigrillo Valley where Rudolf showed us Ritter's Copiapoa horniloensis,
now called C. taltalensis. It seems that Ritter was not familiar with
the plants found on 14 December, 1925 by Ivan M. Johnston and formally
described by .Werdermann as Echinocactus horniloensis in 1929. Looser
made the combination to the genus Copiapoa later that year. In 1980
Ritter comments that Werdermann's description in Backeberg's "Neue
Kakteen“ is so vague that it could apply to most Copiapoa and
that it is probably closest to C. humilis.although no plant in
the Humilis complex has been reported from the area. And yet, his FR 526
found in February 1956 was certainly found in the right place for C.
taltalensis. His collections of the type specimen of his C.
hornillloensis were made seven years later in 1963, but his description
was delayed until 1980. It was nice to 'put a face' to this
controversial name.
Our next stop (S660) was at the
opposite, Ocean, end of the Tigrillo Valley where a slightly different
local form of Copiapoa longistaminea can be found. From here it
was just a short drive to Cifuncho, as the tracks in this part of the
world have greatly improved with the increased mining activity. I guess
every cloud has a silver lining. This site (S661) too has become a bit
of a Copiapoathon tradition as each time I like to go back and check on
a specimen of 'Copiapoa sp. Cifuncho' that has become known as 'Benjy's
plant' as he was the first to show me pictures of this wonderful
six-headed specimen following the 2001 Copiapoathon. I like to see that
it's still OK and if there are any changes to its immediate environment.
All was well, with no noticeable differences in its appearance when
compared to pictures taken in 2006.
It was again only a short
drive to the northern end of Bahia Lavata, to somewhere between Punta
Garcia and Punta Artigas, roughly where the track disappears in a soft
sand stretch of desert. Copiapoa taltalensis was again the main
draw, but the plants were in poor condition here.
I'm not sure who made the
suggestion, but it seemed to be taken up eagerly by the rest of the
group: 'Let's go and have lunch in Taltal.' And so it was that we ended
up in Club Taltal where once again, our host treated the newbies to a
guided tour of the club's premises that have a history dating back to
the 1890's. We had driven round the town a few times, as I could not
find my trusted land mark, the church on the Plaza in the centre of
town. It had gone. It had
burned down in
January 2007 and had left a gap in Taltal's skyline.
Next, we went to find Hotel
Gali (quickly renamed Hotel Ali G by the Brits) to check that the
accommodation booked y Rudolf was in order. It was.
That night there was some
frantic revision of plans as one by one, car parties announced that they
were going to stay in Taltal, rather than join us for the scheduled trip
north to Botija, Tocopilla and Calama. The logical thing was for
everyone to do as they pleased. Leo, Ian and I in particular had our
heart set on looking for C. tocopiliana and the near by Eriosyce laui.
Leo was keen to remind me that whatever changes in plan there were, he
was keen to keep this goal what ever happened.