The early morning queuing
started around 7 a.m. It was just as well that there was no warm water,
as otherwise those that showered might have held up the process for
longer. Soon after 8 we were on our way, with my first intended stop
(S616) along the coastal track where on previous occasions I had found
large specimens of Copiapoa coquimbana. However, the track seemed
to be new and either followed a different route or had covered the
plants in several meters of sand and rock. We found Eulychnia and
only a few, not so large, Copiapoa. Time was pressing, as today
we hoped to get to Freirina via the untried 'pretty route' of El Sarco
and Labrar.
We made a stop (S617) at km
marker 14.500 on the track to El Sarco. In general, it seems that
somewhere in Santiago is km Zero for the Pan American Highway (Ruta 5,
El Cinco) and that as you travel north (and later south), the km markers
on R5 indicate the distances to this point. On roads (or tracks) leading
off R5, the turning off the main highway is fixed at km zero and so on.
In this case, km 0 was the turning off the Domeyko to Carrizalillo road,
for a track that was signposted to Sarco. Cactus literature is full of
location data quoting the km marker on a road between two townships, but
this can be notoriously inaccurate, as it is not unusual for roads (even
the Pan Am) to be moved during subsequent road improvement schemes.
At S617 we found densely
spined clumps of Copiapoa coquimbana, Echinopsis (Trichocereus)
deserticola, Eulychnia acida, Miqueliopuntia miquelii and Eriosyce
heinrichiana and E. eriosyzoides ssp. atroviridis var huascensis, not bad for cactus diversity!
We stopped again, some 6 km
farther along (S618) where we found more of the same. In 2006 we had
turned around at this spot, as we had ran out of time, but this time we
pushed on and finally reached to coast at Caleta Sarco (S619). Here, the
C. coquimbana grew on the beach, in sand among large cobble
stones. It seemed that another taxon had joined in, as shouts of 'Thelocephala!'
went up. Although the plants certainly resembled plants from this (now
out of fashion) genus, with even a nice big tap root, Juan later took me
through my own pictures to show me how these were 'juvenile' or
'adolescent' forms of 'the-plant-with-the-long-name': E. eriosyzoides
ssp. atroviridis var huascensis. What a variable taxon.
Next we had to find a track
leading inland to the north to link up with the Freirina to Labrar road
that we had followed in 2006. The first
attempt ended abruptly as the road had collapsed into the ocean. (s620)
that at least provided some nice C. coquimbana pictures with the
ocean in the back ground. The problem was not finding a track, but
selecting the right one from the myriad of tracks that seemed to lead
every which way. We stopped at a small fisherman's hut along the coast
and Leo chatted with the occupants. The news he brought back was not
good. Yes, there was a track to Labrar, but it was not in good condition
and we were unlike to be able to follow it to Labrar as there were many
twists and turns and side tracks leading to other individual dwellings.
Sign posts were still non-existent. Common sense dictated that we had
best switch to 'Plan B'; drive back the way we had come and take the
main road back to Domeyko, and from there to Ruta 5. I might attempt
this route one more time in the future, from the Labrar end, as it seems
easier to aim for a large object (The Pacific Ocean) rather than a
small, practically deserted settlement.
We now had more time
available so made three more stops before reaching Domeyko and
eventually Vallenar, where we spent the night. The first, S621, was a
brief stop, prompted by some exceptionally long spined Eulychnia. S622,
at km 33.7 - yes, there are km markers every 100 m on tracks that are
being prepared for road improvement schemes - was for a lone Eulychnia
growing on a sandy hill side. Leo isisted that he'd walk up to the
plant, to check that it was at least alive, as he did not believe in
wasting his limited supply of slide film on dead plants. We watched him
almost disappear in the heat haze that shimmered above the sand. After
inspection, his posture seemed to indicate that the plant was alive, as
he moved his camera to his face. He had spotted a second and third lone
Eulychnia, a couple of hundred meters apart and he ran, on the
double, from one to the other. The small dot in the desert stopped
briefly, to pick something from the ground. Had he dropped his lens cap?
On return to the car, he proudly showed us a stem section of
Maihueniopsis domeykoensis that he had cut from a larger clump. I
had seen Maihueniopsis grow at altitude in the Andean altiplano
around San Pedro de Atacama, but had not expected to find it here.
During some rest days after the trip, south of Santiago, I looked up the
Maihueniopsis section of Hoffmann & Walter's Cactaceas en la
flora silvestre de Chile and made a note to include some of the
localities of these plants on future trip plans. They seem to mostly
occur mostly at the end of the many valleys that end half way up the
Andes, usually at quite some altitude. This find here was probably at
the lowest altitude for the genus at ??? m. Further searches in
literature reveals that all these small and very widely distributed
small populations appear to have been lumped in the New Cactus Lexicon
under M. glomerata.Shame. But taxonomy has no room for sentiment.
At km 24 we followed a side
track leading north and up the hills towards another mine. This
zigzagged nicely up the hill to an altitude of 1,031 m. Leo climbed at
least another 50 m. beyond where the track stopped. We were rewarded by
probably the nicest spined Copiapoa coquimbana I have seen. The
Eulychnia too had an excellent defence mechanism.
Satisfied with a good day's
cactus hunting, we were glad to be on tarmac as we reached Ruta 5 and
headed north to Vallenar where we found rooms in Hosteria Vallenar and
met up with our Chilean friends, Florencia Señoret and Juan Pablo
Acosta at the Bavarian restaurant.