I
guess it had to happen. One of my favourite cactus spots on this planet, the
Quebrada San Ramon, now has a public car park at its entrance. Well, it's not
quite that bad, the pending and expanding tourist trade in Taltal has given rise
to some well prepared car parks with picnic and camping facilities. One of these
spots is near the entrance to the quarry at the mouth of the Quebrada.
This
was my fourth visit to this location and we agreed that we'd march some 7 km
straight in, without too much stopping. This would get us to the point where
Copiapoa krainziana and Copiapoa rupestris grow side by side.
During
my second visit, in 2001, we saw C. krainziana growing along the western
side of a quebrada that comes into San Ramon from the north, but these plants
look quite different from that population. Here, the clumps have fewer heads,
with longer stems. The spines here are extremely brittle and come off the plant
at the slightest touch. As a result, the old stems look like ageing punk
rockers, with just a tuft of white spines at the apex.
The
rain that we had experienced a week earlier had left damp patches along the
valley floor. Annuals were starting to appear and shrubs were coming into leaf
and flower.
It
brought home the fact that I could spend a complete three week trip in the
Quebrada and still not see 'everything' - to explore the side canyons and the
hillsides. Even then, it would only be a three week snapshot in time - perhaps
it would be better to make various visits during different months of the year to
gain some appreciation of how the scenery changes during the seasons. But then,
the local concept of seasons is quite different from what I'm used to in Europe,
with its fairly regular and predictable four seasons per annual cycle. Sure,
there seem to be similar seasons here, but they seem to be very similar. There
is another, much more significant seasonal cycle that is influenced by the El
Nino effect. I have now seen this Quebrada in May 2001, June 2003 and October
2004. It will take many more visits to gain even a basic appreciation. Perhaps I
should move to Taltal ☺
The
cameras were snapping all through the Quebrada and have been arranged into 5
stops:
-
S278
- at the mouth of the Quebrada, nearest the Ocean, so with the first and last
pictures of the day
-
S279
- from about the first 20% to 33% of the valley
-
S280
- roughly the second third into the valley
-
S281
- roughly the last third - where C. krainziana grows
-
S282
- as far as we got today - stopped for lunch and then went back
As
usual, we returned to the cabaņas tired but satisfied with what we had seen and
with the images that we had taken. Tomorrow we'd leave early to go to my other
favourite Quebrada, at Botija..