Copiapoa - Living on the Edge
Copiapoa in Habitat
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Copiapoathon 2003

28 June

Pichidangui to Olmué


We were now on 'bonus time'. Originally, we were due to fly out of Chile today, at 7:30 in the morning, but were told that the flight had been cancelled and that no alternative flight would be available until Monday morning. Ricardo had been very helpful in arranging for us to meet up with another couple, members of the Chilean Cactus Society who had a weekend retreat in Pichidangui - Juan Carlos and Isabel Johow. I battled with a phone box and Spanish instructions and got through to them, but only briefly, before my one and only 100 pesos coin ran out.

It transpired that they lived a few hundred meters past the Cabañas Del Bosque, where the Fray Jorge Campers had spent the night this time. At their home, we also met their friends Roland Möller-Holtkamp and his wife Inga and fortunately all spoke excellent English! We were shown around their garden with lots of cacti and other succulents planted out and seemingly perfectly happy to enjoy the Mediterranean type climate. From their terrace, we had a wonderful view over the Bahia de Pichidangui, with the small village (only 900 inhabitants according to my tourist guide), nestled along the peninsula to the south. I'm sure that the number of inhabitants increase greatly during the summer months when holiday makers must double this number.

We were taken on a guided nature walk, over the beach to a steep cliff (S213) - the sort of place that we had been looking for during the previous day, but had been unable to access due to housing development.  Juan Carlos greatly impressed us with his knowledge of the local fauna and flora, pointing out details that we would most certainly have over looked. Most of the cactus taxa seen the previous day at Pichidangui were represented, but in addition, Juan Carlos pointed out the bromeliads, with Puya venusta in bud as one of the earliest indications that Spring was on its way (and for those of us due to return to England shortly, a reminder that the days would be getting shorter again).

Next, we all went back past Hotel Kon-Tiki, to where we had already been the previous day (S210 = S214), but this time with added information from our guides.

So what was there to see at the southern end of the village, beyond the peninsula? Our convoy of four cars zigzagged through the streets of Pichidangui, turned onto a bumpy track and eventually arrived at the ocean front (S215), and a short walk over a nearly-dry gully and up a low hillside (S216). Most of us had expected that photo opportunities would be minimal during our last few days and deals were done for spare films with those who had been more careful in their planning or had digital cameras to overcome this problem. The highlight for me was a huge rock, close to the ocean, that must have had several hundred Eriosyce subgibbosa growing on it.

Back at their home, we were treated to food and drink - great Chilean hospitality! but soon it was time to go, as we still had to drive south to Olmué, where Ricardo had arranged accommodation for us at Cabanas, near to his home. On the way, we dropped Finn off at the bus station, from where he could get to Valparaiso, as he had promised to stay with some friends there. Each time the good byes were said, the realisation that our wonderful time would soon come to an end became stronger.

S216: Cactus Rock, covered with Eriosyce subgibbosa or E. chilensis - impossible to tell when plants are not in flower. Echinopsis (Trichocereus) chiloensis around the base.


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