Today was the first day of our explorations of the
Parque Nacional Pan de Azucar. We took the easy way in, sign posted from Ruta
5 in Chañaral and even before reaching the official gate, were keen to take a
closer look at the clumps of Copiapoa that could be seen from the
road. (S164). They were C. cinerascens, heads with white felted
apex, giving the impression of being somewhat flattened, leading to
Backeberg's name C. applanata, now a synonym, and C. serpentisulcata
with darker heads where the spines formed a peak at the apex. There were many
plants that looked just like the text books indicate they should, but there
were also plants that were more difficult to decide on, likely intermediates -
and why not - the plants grow (and in 2001 - flower) side by side.
At the next stop (S165), just inside the park,
having paid our admission fee, the white spines of C. cinarescens stood
out nicely against the dark rocks on which they grew.
When we stopped again (S166) we could now see
C. grandiflora, seen earlier during our trips from Secret Valley, and
possible intermediates with one or both of the two taxa seen earlier today. If
only we could jump into the future, to the day that a probe can be determine
what name to attach to a plant by a combination of chromosome counts, DNA and
iso-enzyme analysis. Would we believe the result? And where would be the fun
of not being able to speculate and argue about the possible identity of these
plants in the bar at the end of the day? I blame the discoverers of
these taxa for not clearly labelling each plant in the Park correctly.
At a split in the road (i.e. track), we followed the
sign for 'El Mirador' where in 2001 we had found a huge wonderful stand of
Copiapoa columna-alba. These were at least consistent in appearance, just
like the uniformed foot soldiers in the army they resembled. On arrival, we
found a chain across the track to the car park, so had to climb up a 3 m. (9
ft) high slope to reach the plateau on which the plants grew (S167) - wonderful
plants of all ages, from small seedlings (well, no sign of flowering in any
event and only a centimetre or two in diameter - but probably already more
than 10 years of age!) to ancient monsters with stems over 1 meter (3 ft)
tall, all slanting at about 60 degrees in the same direction - north, to the
sun at mid day. These old guys had folds in their stems like some sumo
wrestler. And looked at closely, they were not so uniform, with some
stems off-setting and others definitely clumping. Spine counts per areole
could also vary from plant to plant and from head to head on the same plant.
Of course cameras clicked when ever a cristate head was found. At the edge of
the stand C. serpentisulcata had also joined the party.
On our way to the next stop, the Park buildings at
Las Lomitas, we paused to take pictures of a small herd of guanaco crossing
the road. Once severely threatened with extinction, due to over hunting, their
numbers have increased dramatically since the protection of the National Park
has eliminated legal hunting there. Ironically, their favourite snack is
Copiapoa laui and where ever we found this plant in nature, the guanaco's
hoof marks, having recently scraped away in search for these plants, was there
in greater number than plants found. Another example of how man-kind's
interference with nature can upset a delicate balance.
Las Lomitas (S168) was shrouded in cloud, with
drops of water dripping down the lichen covered Eulychnia - a shame, as
I had hoped to take some pictures to the north from here, where, at c. 800 m.
above sea level, on a clear day you can see Esmeralda and the Cachina Valley,
and follow the coast line to see the mouth of the Guanillos and Tigrilo
Valleys. Also the views south, towards Chañaral, had been spectacular in 2001.
Instead, we fed the three Chilean Desert Foxes, that seemed to have survived
being hand fed cream-crackers in 2001, when we left them anxiously looking for
a drink to wash them down.
From here, we followed a track south, along the edge
of the steep drop to the ocean that was only visible for brief spells as the
cloud temporarily lifted. In 2001 we had found Copiapoa laui along this
track, mainly because one plant had been in flower. Instead we found some
slightly larger heads of a Copiapoa in the humilis / hypogaea complex -
'squishy', as Rudolf would say. (S169 and
S170). Was this C.
hypogaea? C. montana? C. esmeraldana lost at high altitude?
We made two more stops on the way back to Chañaral:
S171 was more like an emergency stop, as Cliff slammed on the anchors
as he had seen a golden spined football - Eriosyce rodentiophila as we
came around a bend in the track. S172 was more controlled as we were
itching to take come more pictures of C. columna-alba on the march.
Again, we found a marvellous fish restaurant, just
south of Chañaral on Ruta 5, where we were able to watch the pelicans and sea
lions compete with the local fisherman, fishing from the pier. Well, not quite
'end', as some of us got involved in a game of pool at the hotel, where the
beers and Pisco Sours seemed to make it more difficult to pot the balls.
Square pockets did not help either.
